Dulce de Leche (Caramelized Condensed Milk) - a Prelude to Yema

I vaguely remember a time when I was a child when my Nanay cooked ONE whole unopened can of condensed milk in boiling water for HOURS...I asked her, "What are you making?" and she answered, quite excitedly with a twinkle in her eyes, "Yema." So I waited eagerly....for a loooooong time. Then finally, the cooking was done. My Nanay opened the can of brown "yema" then she poured the contents off into a bowl. My initial (unspoken) reaction was,"Why was it runny?" because I knew yema was solid but chewy soft enough...like soft candy...so what was this brown syrup? But not wanting to displease my Nanay, who so eagerly placed some into a sliced pandesal, and onto a spoon, and handed to me for tasting, I feigned excitement and tasted the 'treat'...and was I so delightfully surprised...YEMA nga!!!! at least in taste. Mmmmm...I ate a lot!

My Nanay only made it once, probably she was also just experimenting based on a friend's directions, then probably got disappointed with the long cooking time that she never made it again, but I would never forget that time.

Only lately did I learn that the proper term for this runny form of yema was DULCE DE LECHE. My Venezuelan co-worker, knowing I enjoy cooking, asked if I like condensed milk-based desserts, and she mentioned dulce de leche, which I asked her to describe how it was prepared...and I could imagine my Nanay back on that particular day...So now, not having the time to spare (and not really eager to spend that much energy on long cooking in these days of aiming for sustainable living by using less fossil fuels), I searched for the recipe online, and for tips/methods to prepare this in the most efficient, energy-saving, and greenest (as in earth-friendly) way I could. I thought it best to do the pressure cooking for at least 5 cans per batch. (And as I mentioned in the past post on yema, I could use the microwave for preparing one can of condensed milk into yellowish yema).

What you need:
condensed milk
water
pressure cooker or microwave

Instructions:

Pressure-Cooker Method:
How many cans you want to prepare depends on you and the capacity of your pressure cooker.
Peal the label off the can of sweetened condensed milk. Put in a pressure cooker with enough water to come 2/3 up the can ( or cans ) of condensed milk. DO NOT OPEN THE CAN(S) at all. Seal on the lid and pressure cook for 45-60 minutes (depending on how runny or gel-like you want it), longer for darker and thicker dulce. The pressure in and out of the cans is equalized by the pressure cooker. Release pressure and let cool COMPLETELY before attempting to open one can (the pressure you released was that of the water and air inside the pan, not inside the can. If you take out a hot can and open it right away, the content might suddenly explode because of higher pressure compared to the cool air, much in the same way air and steam escapes quickly when you open the release valve of pressure cooker. You now have SEALED cans of dulce de leche that will keep as long as the original cans uncooked. You may want to eat this as is, or as filling for rolls, or (if runny) as topping for pies or ice cream. Make it thicker (using microwave or by longer pressure cooking time) and you come up with YEMA that is brown in color (optional to add butter and or sugar), the yema that I knew from childhood, wrapped into pyramids with a cellophane. My sons love it, plain or as palaman. (Come ice cream season, I will make a runny batch for topping.)

Microwave Method (ideal for making only one can)
Place in a big microwavable bowl. Microwave on high for 2 minutes, then stir. Microwave for 30 sec to 1 minute or until you see it start to bubble and rise, then stir. Microwave in increments of 30 seconds or less, and stir before it bubbles over the bowl. Repeatedly do the same until you get a good consistency although it may still be yellowish (or light brown). Use oven mitts to protect your hands from heat!
Let cool before you eat.

Ube & Yema Ensaymada (aka Pan de Pastel), and Chocolate Ensaymada

Bobong gave me the idea to try using yema as filling for the supersoft ensaymada. So I made a whole batch of ensaymada into ube ensaymada and yema ensaymada. Bobong said the yema-filled ensaymada is called pan de pastel in Camiguin and looks like pan de coco. I just don't know if it is also topped with butter, sugar and cheese, but I did it anyway.

I have no recipe really to share for these. Just use the supersoft ensaymada dough, have yema and ube fillings ready, and see the slideshow below. Work with everything cold already so handling the dough and fillings will be easier. The results of yema-filled ensaymada was so good, thanks to Bobong! Ube, needless to say, is as good as ever for ensaymada.

I had extra dough to make 6 pieces, which I filled with chocolate chips, both milk choco and white choco. I shaped the dough as if they were hopiang baboy. Without toppings, I let my husband have a taste of it (I baked them in my Nu Wave and turned out perfect). Husband liked them so much! My sons did too!

Ingredients:
supersoft ensaymada dough
yema
ube haleya
chocolate chips (milk and white)
topping (butter and sugar to taste, creamed; grated cheese)

Instructions:

Prepare the dough day before. Prepare yema and ube day/s before. Work when these are completely cold.
Grease pan.
Place dough on surface generously sprinkled with flour.
Cut dough into pieces about 2 ounces each (up to you, really). Flatten with the heel of your palm.
Place filling at the center. Gather the edges and seal.
Place on greased pan seam side down. Flatten a bit (or you can leave them rounded like balls). (If you are going to bake right away, you may opt to use muffin pans or brioche molds.)
Optional: Freeze covered with cling wrap for 3 hours at least, then transfer to bags (this is for those who want a good stock of these but want them freshly baked, a little at a time, like I want them.)
Let rise in warm, draft-free environment until double in size.
Bake in 350 deg F oven for 12-15 minutes or until golden brown (please use aluminum pan to avoid overbrowning of bottom). [I baked mine (few pieces at a time) in Nu Wave for 10 minutes without the need to preheat.]
Let cool completely and place in plastic bags if you are not going to eat right away.
Otherwise, cream butter and sugar. Apply to ensaymadas. Top with grated cheese (not necessary for chocolate, but it is up to you if you want to play with flavors).

UPDATE 6-15-09: You may want to use the dulce de leche as filling to make the pan de pastel. If you review Bobong's pan de pastel photos in the photo gallery, it is pretty much like pan de coco with dulce de leche filling. As shown on the photo on the right, I put the dulce de leche in a ziploc and piped out about a tbsp onto a dough piece, then proceeded to wrap it like how I wrap pan de coco. You may then enjoy plainly or with topping.

Yema Balls

Photo above shows (jaundiced) yema balls and ube balls. I experimented for the purpose of using them as filling for ensaymada, per Bobong's suggestion.

I looked for recipes for yema, but many have mashed potatoes...don't know why, but my instincts told me there should be none. I then checked out a youtube vid. . No recipe there, but I had something in mind, and I think the cook and I felt the same way about yema not having potatoes. So I made up my own. However, since this was experimental, I thought I'd try to shortcut the cooking process by using microwave. And when the resulting yema was somewhat chewy, I thought of adding granulated sugar and reheating some more to make it easier to bite into once cold (gritty, though). Then instead of coating the yema balls with caramelized sugar, I did not bother because it would be a filling anyway. (The first batch I experimented on I rolled in granulated sugar, but that batch was too dry because I was waiting for the yema to turn brown. Big mistake.)

The process is simple enough, but not practical for big batches.

I did some more experiment because I wanted to come up with yema as I remembered them: brown and soft, not chewy. Those were the yema that I remember being wrapped in cellophane as small pyramids. I think I came close to it in my succeeding experiments, but that will be for another post in the near future.

Ingredients:
1 can condensed milk
2 egg yolks
1/4 cup sugar

Instructions:

Pour the content of 1 can condensed milk into a big microwaveable bowl (if you use a small one, it might boil over and spill). Put on your gloves as this can get hot. Microwave for 1-2 minutes on high while keeping watch (microwave ovens vary, you know). If you see it starting to boil and rise, stop and stir.

Once it has started to boil, microwave in increments of 10 seconds and stir. There will be a point in time that it can't rise anymore, kinda just deflates, but repeatedly do the microwave-stir cycles until the consistency is thick but still very runny(this is a jaundiced dulce de leche at this point). Do not wait for this to get brown, because then it will be too dry and will be hard when it gets cold (that happened to my first attempt)

Take out the bowl. Get the eggs and separate the whites. (Use the whites for something like meringue, macaroons, or sans rival, or plainly fry them or add to soups). Add the yolks to the dulce and microwave again until it creates bubbles again (this way you know the egg was cooked). Stir and repeat until it becomes almost like paste. Add the sugar and stir, microwave for 10 seconds and stir and repeat. Check once cool enough to handle if it is tacky but does not stick to your skin.

Cool completely and shape into balls.